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Heer Helmet Decal
Heer Helmet Decal

Price: $4.99

Product Code: GHHPHDH

German Helmet Decals

Price $5 pair

"Should I put both my decals on?"
Depends on what time frame and what look you are going for.

Here's the rules for German decals:

     Use both decals if you are doing a pre-war or early-war helmet. After experience in Poland and France, an order in 1940 called for the removal and omission of future tri-color shields (red-white-black striped shield for Heer & Luftwaffe, shield with swastika for the SS). The bright colors were just too visible. Of course, as with any military, this was apparently adhered to only when necessary... there is plenty of photographic evidence showing double-decal helmets all the way to the end of the war.
   * An order dated 1943 called for the removal and omission of ANY decals on helmets. This would mean that ideally-speaking, the 1942 run of M42 shells would have had the National Eagle (or "SS" runes) decal applied in the factories, but after 1943 no decals should be seen on new helmets. In addition, many M35 & M40 shells were reconditioned and reissued all the way to the end, so these rules would apply to them too. To add further confusion, decals were available for private purchase, so it is conceivable that a sneaky Soldat might have applied his own double-decal job to his spanky-new M42 for whatever reason! The best late-war look is probably no decals at all.

All decals are the water-transfer type (same as model kits). It seems the customers of the 21st century never built models and we have been deluged with questions, complaints and numerous coronary events concerning "how do I stick my decal on my helmet?".

What is a water transfer decal?
The emblem is attached to a paper backing which is coated with a water activated glue. The principle is thus: When soaked in water, the glue is activated (becomes sticky again) and the decal can be removed. Some glue remains on the back of the decal which permits it to stick to a surface. Now that that is out of the way....

1. Immerse the decal in water.
2. When the decal is just moveable on the paper, remove from the water. This will take a minute or two. There is no exact time. It depends on the water temperature, the decal, and probably the time of the month. Just check it every 20-30 seconds to see whether it is ready.
3. Gently rub the decal around on the paper backing to pick up as much of the glue as possible. This can be tricky with the LW eagles as the wings are fragile.
How do you tell that the glue has been picked up?  Once the glue has been picked up, the decal will slide easily across the paper.
4. Apply decal to desired location on the helmet.
5. Using your thumb or index finger covered with a damp cloth, gently work the air bubbles out from under the decal by pushing them from the center toward the sides.
6. Allow to dry 24 hours.

For a more durable fix:
After step 5, attack the sucker with a hair dryer. Put it very close (1/2 inch or so) from the decal. After a minute or so, blisters will appear as the water trapped underneath boils up. Take the damp cloth and work them out as before. Repeat 2-3 times. Eventually it will no longer blister. This removes all the water and allows a better grip for the decal.

There are two main problems encountered when applying decals.
1. Decal is left in the water too long.  If you leave it in so long that it floats away from the paper on its own, it will have little or no glue on the back, making it difficult for the decal to stick.
2. Paint.  Some paint simply does not like decals. We have tested them on the 2-3 different paints we use on our helmets and all held the decals. No, we do not have an itemized list of all paints in the world and how well each will take Nazi decals. (Some buckethead would ask, we'll bet money...) However, model paints tend all to be good (for reasons that should be obvious). Conversely, we do know that the camouflage paint from Wal-mart and most primers do not like decals.

Decal Placement: All decals were to be placed 5mm under the vent holes on a standard steel helmet (same distance under the front spanner bolts on a Fallshirmjäger shell).

     For Heer, Kreigsmarine, & Luftwaffe, the National Eagle goes on the left side, tri-color shield on the right.
     For SS, the "SS" runes goes on the right side, and the swastika shield on the left.
     Polizei has the police eagle on the left, and the swastika shield on the right.
     Feldherrnhalle has the swastika shield on the right, with the "building" decal on the left.